We have watched the Maasai Mara on Big Cat Diaries, Planet earth and recently, our very own NTV Wild, but rarely does a chance to go there physically, arise. Well mine came and boy did I wake up stoked!
Boarding time. Nairobi's council askaris almost wrecked our trip prematurely by impounding our 4x4s on flimsy charges. The devil's advocate has never picked a worse juncture. Thankfully, good triumphed over evil and 2 hours later, we were off!
When driving to the Mara, best be prepared for a day's long journey. Besides the incredible sights of the picturesque Kenyan landscape,
the drive was largely uneventful, save for the banter among the guys..I had William(our host),Nelson(driver), James, Joy, Nathan, Pauline, Siema and Bilha for company. There was talk just about everything from the State of our Nation, to why Tanzanians don't seem to like us much (sic), to memories from childhood. The good thing about traveling in small groups is that chances to create long lasting friendships are higher.
The interaction.Very insightful, particularly from Siema and Nathan, who seemed to have a theory for why everything is the way it is..Joy who narrated hilarious stories about one Macharia (I won't say more), and James who is pure comedy. The stand out, however, is one William who true to the company he represents, went 'Beyond' in storytelling and imparting interesting notions and facts within us. What a passionate guy, he went on about the Irony of Kenya regarding the Maasai, who are both the Richest and Poorest among the 42 tribes. The indisputable fact is that they are the magnets attracting visitors from all over the planet.
Occasionally ignoring the stories, I would peek outside to catch a glimpse of the magnificent Rift Valley. I kept thinking to myself, will the city ever slow down and feel this peaceful and green?probably not.
In what seemed like the longest journey to nowhere, I got increasingly convinced that indeed, The Mara owed me a Lion at the very least. I wasn't about to trundle 3 hrs on rough road, taking the African massage in all its glory and fail to spot Simba, the King of the jungle.
We arrived at &BEYOND Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp in the Northern side of the reserve to a glorious reception by staff, led by one delightful Stanley. Thank heavens for that cold juice, it caressed my soul. The camp is nestled so well under thick forest, it would be difficult to spot from the air. Refreshing. This is what responsible tourism is all about. They showed us around the lobby and bar area, the poolside and fireplace that sit pretty and strategically overlooking the park. From here, only a single fence separates you from the wild...Mostly why it was unsurprising to hear that Lions and hyenas are not strangers within the camp(yikes). Besides the sumptuous lunch they had prepared for us and a few glasses of 'dawa' graciously mixed up and served by Masibo at the bar, I noticed the presence of an undeterred resident, the warthog. These chaps literally move around and within the camp with unfettered access. Monkeys too.
6pm, The first Game Drive. Anyone who cared noticed, I couldn't contain my excitement. A dream was about to cease being one. Our driver guide, Dennis - smart, eloquent fellow - mastered our names faster than any of my high school teachers ever could. This guy could spot creatures in ways and places we couldn't, even with the help of a pair of binoculars. Just outside the camp was a family of Elephants stripping down bark off trees and making rumbling noises. Their movement is so calm, like gliding or wading over water.
I now understand why Maasai Mara is the most revered of the world's parks. Unlike its mother the Serengeti, Mara offers the highest density of animals per square km. We came across numerous wildebeest - who seem to be just about everywhere - zebra, antelope and gazelle in many variants, baboon colonies, mongoose, crocodile, hippos, hyena, etc.
The viewing was however interrupted by a surprise Sundowner in the bush. The African Sundowner is distinctly unique. It damn well requires a moment of silence. The chirping of birds, whistling of wind and cracking of burning wood is fodder for lasting memories. It elicits a mysterious feeling, something otherworldly, something beautiful. Add an ice cold Tusker or pick a classic gin and tonic as you savor the splendor of the sun setting in the horizon.
The roasted 'mshkaki' chicken, peanuts in all their different types and drinks served, made for an awesome evening. Chef Clemence, together with Esther, certainly did us justice with all the Nyama. They taught me a few words in Kinyamwezi;
The highlight of the evening was a traditional dance performed by Maasai warriors who literally appeared out of the bush from behind us; I kid you not.
Back at the Camp. A slow, pleasant evening preceded a dinner fit for kings and a night akin to one of those colonial era settings where both young & old converged to indulge in floods of brew. Masibo the mix master is an experienced mixologist who's served the high and mighty. The likes of Reese Witherspoon, George Clooney, U.Kenyatta, among many others. Alongside Jonathan, a humorous chap, they kept the drinks flowing!
My room. Everything about it was impressive. It is a pretty luxurious, all en-suite canvas tent, raised on stilts set among trees, complete with its own solar powered water heating and electricity. In fact, the entire Kichwa Tembo property is powered by solar. What I liked most is the fact that all drinking water is bottled directly at source. Garden of Eden much? No water here goes to waste, as it is recycled and channeled towards other use such as watering the vegetable gardens - another delight.
I had set my wake up call for 6.30 but by 4.30, one stubborn hyena kept me awake, laughing mockingly as if to remind me that I'm the guest here. No, the intruder. Anyway, the official wake up call brought with it coffee, cookies and incredible views of the horizon, covered with diverse hues of reds, orange and some yellow.
Full Day Game drive. I had already embraced the Mara, awaiting every surprise it was going to throw at me. By 0800hrs I had spotted wildebeest in their thousands. A wildebeest, unlike its better looking cousin the Topi, is interesting to watch but downright ugly to look at. One can't help but wonder why they form a lion's favorite dish.
Game viewing with Dennis was like listening to the Mara itself speak, 'see that rock over there?just beside it, that's a Black -Crowned Night - Heron'. We went on to see a whole lot of animal species in their numbers but the best sighting was obviously the Lions. We pulled up to the marsh plains, right where 'Big Cat Diaries' was shot in pursuit of the most popular lion family, the Marsh Pride. Sadly, the marsh is no longer what it used to be, and the pride grew too big to hold together so it broke apart and moved away, far from the plains.
Further into the Mara we came across a couple of Lions - all sleepy from the heat, a hyena running after nothing to god knows where, and giraffes flaunting their long legs, exuding sheer elegance- I tend to think the giraffe is the Icon of the jungle. Its interesting how animals ignore us, completely minding their own business even when safari vehicles pull up close to them.
Lunch in the bush. I didn't witness a kill but I take pride in the fact that I had my lunch stark in the middle of the Mara, set up (again) by the good people of Kichwa Tembo. I maneuvered my canines (sic,had to) through that poor chicken's thigh with ferocity much like a cheetah would, a hapless antelope. Speaking of Cheetah, we spotted a band of brothers cooling off in the shade. So slender yet fierce. We were happy to learn that cheetah numbers here are on the rise, though still facing a looming threat to their survival. Cheetahs are the more fragile of the big cats.
Back at Camp, Ronald the Chef. I have never seen anyone whip up eggs faster than this guy Ronald. Flipping chapatis on the pan, pouring this oil here, flambe there, chopping up onions like its nothing, and still telling stories from back home in Rongai. Ronald, you deserve your own, dedicated paragraph. Done.
The evening had once again come upon us and while out in the dark nights of the savanna, the stars shone so bright. Brightly so, that my memory of none in the city, is a shame. Beyond the soothing dark of the night, it's Open Bar time! It is at this point that the whole group met to drink and banter the night away.. 'ROOM 32!- family' this would only make sense to those present so, I won't dwell much on it.
Final Day. Have you ever felt sad well aware there's absolutely nothing you could do about it? That's exactly how I felt, yet somehow still, this charming little haven that is Kichwa Tembo impressed a calmness in me that can only be felt inside,.. not explained,not demonstrated. It felt like home. A home where everyone deserves to be, at least once in their lifetime. One last game drive, one last breakfast in the bush - What a beautiful spot for this one. Truly breathtaking.
On the way back to Nairobi, I recalled my thoughts about the Mara owing me a Lion at the very least. I was dead wrong; it was I that owed the Mara another Visit.
Boarding time. Nairobi's council askaris almost wrecked our trip prematurely by impounding our 4x4s on flimsy charges. The devil's advocate has never picked a worse juncture. Thankfully, good triumphed over evil and 2 hours later, we were off!
When driving to the Mara, best be prepared for a day's long journey. Besides the incredible sights of the picturesque Kenyan landscape,
the drive was largely uneventful, save for the banter among the guys..I had William(our host),Nelson(driver), James, Joy, Nathan, Pauline, Siema and Bilha for company. There was talk just about everything from the State of our Nation, to why Tanzanians don't seem to like us much (sic), to memories from childhood. The good thing about traveling in small groups is that chances to create long lasting friendships are higher.
The interaction.Very insightful, particularly from Siema and Nathan, who seemed to have a theory for why everything is the way it is..Joy who narrated hilarious stories about one Macharia (I won't say more), and James who is pure comedy. The stand out, however, is one William who true to the company he represents, went 'Beyond' in storytelling and imparting interesting notions and facts within us. What a passionate guy, he went on about the Irony of Kenya regarding the Maasai, who are both the Richest and Poorest among the 42 tribes. The indisputable fact is that they are the magnets attracting visitors from all over the planet.
Occasionally ignoring the stories, I would peek outside to catch a glimpse of the magnificent Rift Valley. I kept thinking to myself, will the city ever slow down and feel this peaceful and green?probably not.
In what seemed like the longest journey to nowhere, I got increasingly convinced that indeed, The Mara owed me a Lion at the very least. I wasn't about to trundle 3 hrs on rough road, taking the African massage in all its glory and fail to spot Simba, the King of the jungle.
We arrived at &BEYOND Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp in the Northern side of the reserve to a glorious reception by staff, led by one delightful Stanley. Thank heavens for that cold juice, it caressed my soul. The camp is nestled so well under thick forest, it would be difficult to spot from the air. Refreshing. This is what responsible tourism is all about. They showed us around the lobby and bar area, the poolside and fireplace that sit pretty and strategically overlooking the park. From here, only a single fence separates you from the wild...Mostly why it was unsurprising to hear that Lions and hyenas are not strangers within the camp(yikes). Besides the sumptuous lunch they had prepared for us and a few glasses of 'dawa' graciously mixed up and served by Masibo at the bar, I noticed the presence of an undeterred resident, the warthog. These chaps literally move around and within the camp with unfettered access. Monkeys too.
6pm, The first Game Drive. Anyone who cared noticed, I couldn't contain my excitement. A dream was about to cease being one. Our driver guide, Dennis - smart, eloquent fellow - mastered our names faster than any of my high school teachers ever could. This guy could spot creatures in ways and places we couldn't, even with the help of a pair of binoculars. Just outside the camp was a family of Elephants stripping down bark off trees and making rumbling noises. Their movement is so calm, like gliding or wading over water.
I now understand why Maasai Mara is the most revered of the world's parks. Unlike its mother the Serengeti, Mara offers the highest density of animals per square km. We came across numerous wildebeest - who seem to be just about everywhere - zebra, antelope and gazelle in many variants, baboon colonies, mongoose, crocodile, hippos, hyena, etc.
The viewing was however interrupted by a surprise Sundowner in the bush. The African Sundowner is distinctly unique. It damn well requires a moment of silence. The chirping of birds, whistling of wind and cracking of burning wood is fodder for lasting memories. It elicits a mysterious feeling, something otherworldly, something beautiful. Add an ice cold Tusker or pick a classic gin and tonic as you savor the splendor of the sun setting in the horizon.
The roasted 'mshkaki' chicken, peanuts in all their different types and drinks served, made for an awesome evening. Chef Clemence, together with Esther, certainly did us justice with all the Nyama. They taught me a few words in Kinyamwezi;
'Maana' (hello) .. 'Maana-to' (fine/am well) 'Kwenda maana' (goodbye/go well)
The highlight of the evening was a traditional dance performed by Maasai warriors who literally appeared out of the bush from behind us; I kid you not.
Back at the Camp. A slow, pleasant evening preceded a dinner fit for kings and a night akin to one of those colonial era settings where both young & old converged to indulge in floods of brew. Masibo the mix master is an experienced mixologist who's served the high and mighty. The likes of Reese Witherspoon, George Clooney, U.Kenyatta, among many others. Alongside Jonathan, a humorous chap, they kept the drinks flowing!
My room. Everything about it was impressive. It is a pretty luxurious, all en-suite canvas tent, raised on stilts set among trees, complete with its own solar powered water heating and electricity. In fact, the entire Kichwa Tembo property is powered by solar. What I liked most is the fact that all drinking water is bottled directly at source. Garden of Eden much? No water here goes to waste, as it is recycled and channeled towards other use such as watering the vegetable gardens - another delight.
I had set my wake up call for 6.30 but by 4.30, one stubborn hyena kept me awake, laughing mockingly as if to remind me that I'm the guest here. No, the intruder. Anyway, the official wake up call brought with it coffee, cookies and incredible views of the horizon, covered with diverse hues of reds, orange and some yellow.
Full Day Game drive. I had already embraced the Mara, awaiting every surprise it was going to throw at me. By 0800hrs I had spotted wildebeest in their thousands. A wildebeest, unlike its better looking cousin the Topi, is interesting to watch but downright ugly to look at. One can't help but wonder why they form a lion's favorite dish.
Game viewing with Dennis was like listening to the Mara itself speak, 'see that rock over there?just beside it, that's a Black -Crowned Night - Heron'. We went on to see a whole lot of animal species in their numbers but the best sighting was obviously the Lions. We pulled up to the marsh plains, right where 'Big Cat Diaries' was shot in pursuit of the most popular lion family, the Marsh Pride. Sadly, the marsh is no longer what it used to be, and the pride grew too big to hold together so it broke apart and moved away, far from the plains.
Further into the Mara we came across a couple of Lions - all sleepy from the heat, a hyena running after nothing to god knows where, and giraffes flaunting their long legs, exuding sheer elegance- I tend to think the giraffe is the Icon of the jungle. Its interesting how animals ignore us, completely minding their own business even when safari vehicles pull up close to them.
Lunch in the bush. I didn't witness a kill but I take pride in the fact that I had my lunch stark in the middle of the Mara, set up (again) by the good people of Kichwa Tembo. I maneuvered my canines (sic,had to) through that poor chicken's thigh with ferocity much like a cheetah would, a hapless antelope. Speaking of Cheetah, we spotted a band of brothers cooling off in the shade. So slender yet fierce. We were happy to learn that cheetah numbers here are on the rise, though still facing a looming threat to their survival. Cheetahs are the more fragile of the big cats.
Back at Camp, Ronald the Chef. I have never seen anyone whip up eggs faster than this guy Ronald. Flipping chapatis on the pan, pouring this oil here, flambe there, chopping up onions like its nothing, and still telling stories from back home in Rongai. Ronald, you deserve your own, dedicated paragraph. Done.
The evening had once again come upon us and while out in the dark nights of the savanna, the stars shone so bright. Brightly so, that my memory of none in the city, is a shame. Beyond the soothing dark of the night, it's Open Bar time! It is at this point that the whole group met to drink and banter the night away.. 'ROOM 32!- family' this would only make sense to those present so, I won't dwell much on it.
Final Day. Have you ever felt sad well aware there's absolutely nothing you could do about it? That's exactly how I felt, yet somehow still, this charming little haven that is Kichwa Tembo impressed a calmness in me that can only be felt inside,.. not explained,not demonstrated. It felt like home. A home where everyone deserves to be, at least once in their lifetime. One last game drive, one last breakfast in the bush - What a beautiful spot for this one. Truly breathtaking.
On the way back to Nairobi, I recalled my thoughts about the Mara owing me a Lion at the very least. I was dead wrong; it was I that owed the Mara another Visit.
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